Lessons in Mini Twists: The Cheat Sheet

So here's the thing: I'm not usually a fan of mini-twists. Rather I should say I am not a fan of putting them in and taking them out, but the duration of wearing mini twists is often a fantastic experience! One night I found myself putting in some of the tiniest twists I've ever done, and while I cursed myself in my head my hands would not stop. About 6 hours later (that includes making and eating dinner; talking on the phone; periodically checking Facebook...) I was very proud of the mini twists in my hair.

My best set of twists lasted over three weeks, but I usually can't keep them in for so long because they get frizzy. I'm amazed at those who keep their twists looking fresh for four weeks or more! What are your experiences with mini twists? Any of you able to reach an entire month?

Here's what I've learned from my mini twist experiences:

1. Twisting on wet hair and using a wet product like gel creates a tighter, longer-lasting twist, but also produces greater shrinkage. Twisting on dry hair using an oil or butter creates softer, less-defined twists that tend to unravel. I find lightly spritzing dry hair and mixing a light oil into gel products produce tight twists that last long and are well defined when unraveled. The twists also retain greater length because they are not saturated with water.
2. The rope twist method (rotating each section clockwise while twisting counter-clockwise or vice versa) creates tighter and longer twists that last longer than regular two strand twists. However the hair can get very tangled if the mini twists are styled often. I use the rope twist method for all of my twists, my hair will unravel otherwise. Tangles used to be a problem for me, but my three step unraveling method has nearly eliminated the problem.
3. Roller sets on mini twists can mimic many straight styles, like bobs and drop curls, but somehow manage to last longer. I wore a roller set mini twist bob to my two hour dance rehearsal and still had curls at the end! I have a theory that its something about the twists and natural curl of the hair, blah blah blah...
4. Trimming your hair while in mini twists is not always such a great idea, especially if a comb wasn't used to make straight and even parts. When I saw scraggly ends I kept trimming them. When I took my hair loose I noticed how uneven it had become because of my "arbitrary" trimming. Besides, those ends didn't look as scraggly when clumped in coils rather than randomly parted mini twists. Ooops!
5. Some natural recipes don't work so well with small twists- like yogurt-based hair conditioners. Even after several rinses I didn't get it all out, but it was a couple of days until I was alerted by a less than pleasurable smell (first noticed by my husband). Yikes!
6. When unraveling mini twists I follow three simple rules: Use lots of lubrication (oil, conditioner, etc.). Follow the coil (in reverse, of course). Be patient. I like using oil on dry hair for unraveling twists. My strands have a tendency to straighten and slip right out of the twists. When I wet my hair it curls tighter and is harder to detangle. When I rush I often create knots, but when I take my time and follow all three steps I can get through my whole head with very few knots!

If I said I was "Over" Natural Hair, Would You Believe Me?

This is wonderful autobiographical post written by Sunshine Abuwi of Natural Sunshine and Daily Dose of Sunshine. I have to applaud Sunshine for sharing her personal growth and as always I am in admiration of her honesty and transparency. A step towards umoja indeed!


If I said I was "Over" Natural Hair, Would You Believe Me?
By Sunshine Abuwi

A lot has changed in regards to my relationship with natural hair over the three years I have been natural. In the beginning I was gung ho. I was determined that every woman of African descent on the planet should go natural. I was strongly anti-weave and the mere mention of heat-treating natural hair was enough to make me angry. So much has changed since then.

Style Tutorial: Frohawk Bonanza

Hooking up my Fro Hawk for a night on the town (well in my friend's house...)

Frohawk Bonanza

Style Tutorial: Braid Out Updo Ups and Downs

The ups and downs of figuring out a hair style... I still kept it relatively short.

Braid Out Updo Ups and Downs

 

Style Tutorial: Roll One Up

This is my new favorite hairstyle, especially fall through spring when my hair stays mostly in protective styles. Its super quick, like 10 minutes or less quick, and can go from elegant, to chic, to funky to match any outfit or occasion. I don't wear many accessories but I'll bet there are some great ones to rock with this, like colorful feathers or flowers. Try it out, send me pics and tell me what you think. 

Roll One Up... A quick hair style that is!

Belle Butters/Hey Fran Hey/Urban Bush Babes' Sweet Meet & Greet

Belle's Butters, an all-natural hair, bath and beauty company, teamed up with natural health and beauty/urban fashion blogs Hey Fran Hey and Urban Bush Babes to throw a heck of a party Tuesday evening. Dylan's Candy Bar in NYC's midtown was full a glorious fros, manes and locks. Featuring long overdue reunions, tasty cocktails and the largest cupcakes I've ever seen!

Thanks for a fabulous time guys!!!!!!

Reunited with former neighbor Cipriana of UrbanBushBabes.com

Tasha Burton a.k.a Lady Belle of Belle's Butters

College friends re-united: Yvonne Fly Onakeme Etaghene, performer & Francheska of Hey Fran Hey and me.

l. to r. Me, Cipriana of Urban Bush Babes, Yvonne Fly Onakeme Etaghene, Nikisha of Urban Bush Babes

l. to r. Me, Cipriana of Urban Bush Babes, Yvonne Fly Onakeme Etaghene, Nikisha of Urban Bush Babes

Wash N' Go My @$$!!!!

I know it the title sounds a bit harsh but hear me out. This isn't a criticism of anyone's styling choices, just a realization I came to as I thought of my own struggle to "define" my curls and rock a so-called "wash and go" style.

When I hear the phrase "wash and go" I immediately think of a two-step process: washing my hair (which includes conditioning) and going out the door. The reality of the wash and go style for most kinky haired naturals is that there is a huge step in the middle that can be divided into multiple sub-steps.

After the hair is washed and conditioned there is sectioning, detangling, applying leave in conditioner, sometimes applying an additional cream product, applying a gel product, raking or brushing the product through, constantly spritzing the hair to keep it soaking wet throughout the process, awkwardly avoiding touching the done sections of hair as you move on.

This process can take up to 2 hours, especially if your hair is long, thick and more kinky than curly!!!!!! And you're not even guaranteed satisfactory results. Umm... what happened to the two simple steps of washing and going?

To address this misnomer, I want to redefine the "wash and go" style. My true wash and go styles are pigtails or two large cornrows (if my hair was washed loose) and bantu knots (if my hair was washed in twists).

If you had to limit your wash and go to a truly simple routine, what would you choose?

When spending a week on the beach, who wants more than wash and go hair? I lived in these cornrows!

Style Tutorial: 1 Twist Out 8 Styles

It was time for me to wash my hair so I couldn't wear my fabulous twist out in the street. So I challenged myself to make as many styles as possible before my camera battery died. Check out the 8 styles I created from 1 twist out. Enjoy!

1 Twist Out 8 Styles: Style 1

1 Twist Out 8 Styles: Style 2

1 Twist Out 8 Styles: Style 3

1 Twist Out 8 Styles: Style 4 & 5

1 Twist Out 8 Styles: Style 6

1 Twist Out 8 Styles: Style 7

1 Twist Out 8 Styles: Style 8

1 Twist Out 8 Styles: BONUS Style

I Love to be Natural, But Don't Dare Call Me Nappy!

This was first published on Hmms By PMM July 27, 2011.
 
Before I get to doing what I like to do (share my opinion) I have to clearly state that this post is in no way meant to insult or criticize anyone else for their individual experiences. I am only speaking from my own perspective.

What's in a name? We ask that question all the time but rarely act with it in mind. What is it to be called African? Complimentary or insulting? If a person identifies as a descendant of African people, does the name not apply? Why do we brown-skinned women flush when called a "Nubian goddess" but cringe when called "an African"?

Once upon a time, "kinky" and "nappy" were both offensive terms. Now kinky is ok, its a celebrated term. It is often modified with "curly" as in "kinky curly" but still, its graciously accepted. But nappy is still an insult, it hasn't received its pass yet. So again I ask, what's in a name?

Of course emotions are tied to words and its easier said than done when choosing not to get hurt by certain words. But remembering that words are only as powerful as the value we place into them may be helpful to keep in mind when dealing with negative comments about natural hair.

(Wannabes) Well you got nappy hair.
(Jigaboos) Nappy's alright with me.
- Lyrics from the song "Straight and Nappy," from the movie soundtrack Skool Daze. (1987)

The Kitchen Salon: Flaxseed Gel

Firstly I must give thanks to Naptural85 of YouTube for her Do It Yourself: Homemade Natural Hair Gel with Flaxseeds video that introduced me to this miracle concoction. I used her video as a guide but followed my own instincts with measuring and mixing oils. Here is my process:

  

Prepare a glass container (this can withstand the heat and allow you to see what you're doing) with a knee high stocking or other mesh material stretched over. Its a good idea to secure the material over the opening of the container with a rubber band or hair tie. Allow ample stocking or material inside the container.

   

Bring 1 cup of tap water to a boil. Add 1/8 cup of golden or dark brown flaxseeds to the boiling water. Stir occasionally. The mixture will gain viscosity, and become a thick mucus.

   

When mixture becomes very thick and begins to foam slightly (about 10-12 minutes) turn off heat and pour mixture (seeds and all) into your container prepared with mesh/stocking.

 

Lift the mesh/stocking and allow gel to strain into container. You may use tongs to squeeze gel through mesh/stocking (or I made "tongs" out of a pair of chopsticks).

    

As mixture cools it will thicken. Before completely cool stir in Vitamin E, flax seed oil, vegetable glycerine, 1 teaspoon of your favorite oil (olive, castor, etc.) and a few drops of your favorite essential oils for for scent and enhancements. I'll include suggestions at the bottom.

The last time I decided to reheat the flaxseeds and see if I could make more gel, and it worked. I wouldn't suggest boiling them more than that, but I got 2 servings of gel from 1/8 cup of seeds! Store your gel in an airtight container in the refrigerator. The oils will help preserve the mixture, but I suggest using it within 7-10 days though Naptural85 stores hers for longer.

The Results

My braid outs and twist out are wonderfully defined each and every time, but my hair is never hard and stays moist and defined the whole day. To refresh I spritz my hair and rebraid/twist at night. The results are just as defined the next day. The gel is extremely light, so it doesn't produce a lot of build up over time. I've slept in my curly updos with a silk bonnet and my curls were intact the next day!

Essential Oils for Enhancements

Grapefruit, Orange and Lavendar: adds shine, increase circulation and smells wonderful

Sage, Rosemary and Lavendar: increase circulation, stimulate growth, minimize dry scalp

Try out this recipe and share your tips for enhancements and variations!

~ In Hair Solidarity,

Pia

The Kitchen Salon: Come On In!

This was originally posted on "NaturalSunshine.com" May 20, 2011.

Hey Fam!

I've been grappling with this idea of blogging for a while, but didn't have a specific topic that motivated me to write consistently. Then I became obsessed with growing long healthy natural hair using all natural products. That obsession expanded to making my own hair products from items that were in my kitchen and finally led me to this idea of blogging on DIY hair products, experiences I've had with various ingredients and how others could use them for their own hair.

So welcome to The Kitchen Salon, my blog series on DIY hair products made from all natural ingredients, mostly items that can be found in your kitchen and bathroom. I will not claim to be the originator of the ideas, but I do put my own personal spin on every recipe I come across (cause that's how I do... even as I kid I never followed directions too closely).

As often as possible I will post links to the places where I first learned of the successful recipes, but some of the recipes I acquired from many sources over a period of time and I don't recall the sources. I will also post step by step directions in how you can make the product yourself, and offer ideas for variations. What I enjoy most about making my own products is having the ability to switch up the ingredients if I find my hair needs more or less of a certain effect.

I do encourage anyone who tries the recipes to post their feedback. One of the most exciting (and sometimes frustrating) aspects of hair is that it is just as unique as our DNA. Two people with seemingly identical hair types can have different experiences with the same product and regimen. So please keep this a flowing discussion and offer your feedback.
At The Kitchen Salon, the door is always open!

~In Hair Solidarity,
Pia

2008-10: THE AGE OF NATURAL HAIR ENLIGHTENMENT

This post originally appeared on "NaturalSunshine.com" January 28, 2011.

Asien (from Natural Sunshine) asked me what happened two years ago to change my understanding and maintenance of my natural hair. Well I got a story, like to hear it? Here it go!

In the summer of 2008 I met a beautician who wanted to do only natural hair, she was so happy I came into the shop. I had about 4 inches of hair, that I had never cut and rarely trimmed the 8 years I had been natural by then.

I was telling her of my chronic issue with dryness and breakage, that I was very careful with how I treated my hair but nothing worked. She asked if I were using the same products that I did with a relaxer, and I was. That was the issue! I was applying chemicals to my virgin hair, and they were doing nothing for me. If I looked for natural products I would see better results.

She introduced me to the Caramel Treatment & Jane Carter Solution, and used those products in my hair. I loved the results! I got the CT a second time, but it was too expensive to maintain. It stretched my hair and made it easy to straighten. I had forgotten the name of the JCS line, so it would be a few years until I came around to them again.

I started using Nubian Heritage & Burt's Bees shampoos & conditioners which are generally 97% natural. My hair began to respond immediately. It maintained moisture and was softer. But I still had breakage! Then I started looking up ways to make conditioners with household foods.

If I were going to use products that were as natural as possible, why didn't I just make my own?! The day I met the coconut milk & avocado conditioner... I was enlightened! When baking soda rinse and apple cider vinegar rinse joined in... I was ecstatic! And so was my hair!

I chopped my hair off just before New Year's 2010, down to about 1 1/2 - 2inches. My hair was supple. It had shine. It had bounce. It still had constant breakage... WTF?!

Then I discovered the seamless comb in July 2010. At that time, my longest strands were about 4 1/2 inches. Now in January 2011, my longest strands are about 8 inches. 3 1/2 inches in 6 months, I'd say that's progress!

To wrap up this rather long stroll down memory, the lessons I've learned in the last two years are:
- natural hair benefits best from natural products
- a seamless comb helps to eliminate breakage and lessen shedding
- I really enjoy blocking out a few hours (or an entire day) to make my products, prewash, rinse, deep condition, stretch and style my hair! It is my ME TIME!!

I hope you all enjoyed my story.

In Hair Solidarity,

Pia