Style Tutorial: Curly Sue (Mini Twist Flexi Rod Roller Set)

I've been rocking mini twists for two weeks now and have kept them in a bun most of the time. Two weeks is a long time for me to wear one style, I love to switch it up every other day or so! So I decided to roller set my twists with flexi rods and without heat.

The night before I had co-washed my twists, but had kept them in a bun since then. I lightly spritzed clumps of 5 or 6 twists with water. Then I applied a dime-sized amount of Jane Carter Solution Wrap & Roll foam and wrapped each section tightly around a flexi rod. My hair was damp but not at all saturated.

I applied a scarf and let my hair set overnight. In the morning I took out the rollers. My hair was still well moisturized from being in a bun after co-washing, so I didn't feel the need to add any oil to my hands before unrolling. I will probably spritz and seal my twists tonight before bed.

I separated the twists in each clump and that was it! The takedown process took about 15 minutes total (unrolling and separating). The rolling took a little over an hour... but there was a movie and snacking involved. 8-D

YES!!! The flexi rods are uncomfortable to sleep in. I usually try to use them in the morning if I don't have to leave the house until later in the day. For those who need quicker results, you can use a hooded dryer. For touch-ups or bangs, a blow dryer with a diffuser can set the curls in as little as five minutes. Flexi rods take a while to dry so consider these guidelines when using them:

1. Dampen, don't saturate the hair. If you just washed your hair, blot or plop it to absorb most of the water.
2. Use small sections of hair. The less hair on the roller, the faster the dry time.
3. A foam or mousse product is lighter than a gel or cream, and dries much quicker.
4. Give yourself the adequate amount of time for the curls to set. If you are really in a rush, try a ventilated roller. Flexi rods make awesome long-lasting curls, but they take a while to work their magic.
5. Clean your flexi rods after each use. Think about the product buildup your hair would have if you never cleaned it. The same applies to your hair tools. I just dump them in the sink with some warm water and a little Dr. Bronner's soap. Be sure to set them out on a towel to dry thoroughly before storing.

What are your favorite curling hair tools? Do you have a "quick set" method?

Kitchen Testimonials: Cpj

Subscriber, Cpj, had this to say about maintaining mini twists:

I agree. In order to preserve any protective style when washing gentle handling is a must! Aside from maintaining the look of the style, I find that gentle handling avoids extreme tangling. What methods have you all found to be helpful in maintaining your twists and other protective styles?

Kitchen Testimonials: Ellie and Unathi

While hanging with my homegirl Ellie we got onto the topic of hair care regimens (duh!) and she mentioned that she had been making her own cleansing and conditioning products for hair and home. I asked (ok, nudged) her to share what has been working for her and this is what she shared:

Since we're having "church" in the kitchen salon, I thought I'd share another testimonial with you. This is from Unathi who attended my first kitchen salon class at NYC's Cuchifritos via The Trade School. Seems like it wasn't too bad... maybe I should try another?

Have any of you tried some of the recipes from the blog? Let us know what worked, and even what didn't work! If you have a recipe, question or comment send it to submissions.thekitchensalon@gmail.com.

The Kitchen Salon Featured in Liberated Strands Magazine

* SQUEAL * It's here it's here! Liberated Strands #2 has arrived and it features an article I wrote about protective styling. See "Fight Hair in Hand" on pg. 93 for my protective styling tutorial and DIY hair care tips.

Thanks to Angela Clay for the opportunity. KS fam, this whole magazine is full of stunning photos of gorgeous women with a variety of manes. Check it out and tell us what you think. ♥

 

Open publication - Free publishing

FREE Kitchen Salon Class in NYC 4/6

Don't have money? No problem! Let's Barter... 

FREE Kitchen Salon Class - Friday Apr 6

The Kitchen Salon

12:00pm to 1:30pm

Cuchifritos
120 Essex Street
New York

Do you want outstanding hair without an outrageous price? Want to be able to pronounce all of the ingredients listed on your hair and body products? Then perhaps you should consider starting your own DIY kitchen salon. What started as a quest for healthy long natural hair has completely shifted my approach to my nutrition and expanded an already growing interest in reusing and recycling. It's amazing how much I've learned about the multifaceted uses of common items that are always in my kitchen and bathroom. The more I learn the more I want to share, which is why I started a blog called The Kitchen Salon (thekitchensalon.blogspot.com). If you want to save money and look great while being healthier or more eco-friendly, check out what you can do with your own kitchen salon!

About the teacher, Pia Monique Murray

Dancer. Thinker. Choreographer. Dreamer. Educator. Administrator. Daughter. Wife. Friend. So welcome to The Kitchen Salon, my blog series on DIY hair products made from all natural ingredients, mostly items that can be found in your kitchen and bathroom. I will not claim to be the originator of the ideas, but I do put my own personal spin on every recipe I come across (cause that's how I do... even as I kid I never followed directions too closely).

Join 

I Don't Know What You Been Told, But I Love My Blow Dryer (Though Its Old)

I know many naturals have sworn off of heat styling, and I do go for long stretches of time without using any heat. Recently I've been impatient with drying time and I've been enjoying the look of blow dried hair. So for the past month I've been blow drying my hair after my weekly washes. AND (are you ready for this?) I haven't been using protective styling that much. As it turns out heat doesn't have to be my arch nemesis. Are there other naturalistas who would defend their blow dryers like a play cousin in the hood?

Before we were so close I was afraid of blow dryers. Like, I would cross the street and grab hold of my purse if I saw one... they scared me so much! For years blow dryers meant tired arms, lots of breakage, somewhat straight roots and crunchy frizzy ends. There is nothing attractive about any of that. But I no longer have that association with my blow dryer even though it is the same ole' dryer from high school! But the results are drastically different.

What changed? I learned about deep conditioning, diffusers/comb attachments and heat protectants. Now that I am diligent about the use of all three, I can blow dry my hair in a fraction of the time, I have much less breakage and my hair is smooth from root to tip. I deep condition my hair in twists after detangling. I finger detangle again while adding my homemade heat protectant. I prefer my comb attachment over a diffuser and separate comb, its seamless and wide-toothed and concentrates the heat on my strands for faster results with less effort. And um yes, I am using a $1.99 comb attachment from the beauty supply store!

All three things in conjunction improved the experience but I think I owe the majority of my success to my homemade heat protectant. Its worked so well for me I just had to share the recipe with you all. Click here for the full recipe and post your results if you use it.

Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) is a Magic Potion

Gurrrrrl or Duuuuude! Let me tell you about the new love of my life. Yea the hubby is swell, but apple cider vinegar (ACV) is my boo! Don't laugh at me, I'm seriously professing my love over here.
Ok all jokes aside I really do love ACV, simply because it is a literal cure-all that has been used since the B.C. era!!! This magic potion serves so many purposes; I started using it for a hair rinse and now use it for home and body care!

Unpasteurized organic ACV

When using ACV as a nutritional supplement use the unpasteurized organic version with "the mother." Bragg is the most common brand; co-founder Patricia Bragg has a published book on the many wonders of ACV. The mother is a clump of fibers that occur naturally during fermentation and contains crucial nutrients. I think using the pasteurized non-organic version is fine for household or for topical body care uses.

Here are just a few of the magical properties of ACV:


- Total body care
The solution that I drink twice a day is very popular as it supplies many nutrients and keeps my body's systems running smoothly. I like to call this the Magic Potion: 2-3 tablespoons ACV, 1 tablespoon unsulphered blackstrap molasses, 1 cup of water. The water should be at least room temperature so the molasses will mix, but I prefer to drink it as a hot tea. I drink this every morning and night, and my body has been feeling so much better for it!

- Household disinfectant
Mix a solution of 1 part ACV and 1 part water in a spray bottle. Apply the solution to shower and tub walls, kitchen counters, stove tops, windows, mirrors, etc. The smell will lessen as the solution dries. For tougher stains allow the solution to sit for a few minutes before wiping clean. This can also be done with white vinegar if you are concerned about the color staining.

- Facial astringent and toner
After using a facial cleanser, apply undiluted AVC as a toner using a cotton ball. The ACV will draw out any additional oil or dirt from your pores. The smell will subside as the vinegar dries, but if it it bothers you rinse again with cool water (to keep pores closed).

- Hair rinse
Mix 1 part ACV and 6 parts water for a clarifying and neutralizing hair rinse. The disinfectant properties help remove excess oil, dirt and product buildup (clarifying) and the mild acidity helps to balance your hair's pH (neutralizing).

- Rash and burn treatment
Undiluted ACV may be applied topically to soothe localized skin rashes and mild burns (whether from the sun or other heat sources). For larger affected areas, soak in a bathtub with 1 cup of ACV added to the water. Applying aloe vera after the soaking will provide additional relief.

- Cramps and muscle soreness
Soaking in a bathtub with a few tablespoons of ACV added to the water will help relieve muscle soreness and cramps.

- Women's health
ACV is The Creator's gift to women, I'm sure of it.  Drinking the Magic ACV Potion can provide relief for menstrual cramps and bloating, heavy menstrual flow, ovarian cysts and fibroids, hemorrhoids and morning sickness during pregnancy. For relief from yeast infections you can create an ACV douche with 2 tablespoons of ACV in one quart of warm water. NOTE: Douching should not be done frequently. If the problem persists you can try a bathtub soak mentioned above.

Are there any that I missed? Only a few hundred others... You can check out Bragg.com for further information and more great ideas. Have you been using ACV in your home and body care regimens? Please share them with us!

Reasons to Start Your Own Kitchen Salon

Ingredients for my Winter Hair Mask

There are two trends in the natural hair community that have inspired me to make major changes in my lifestyle; greater interest in DIY hair care and greater interest in natural products. What started as a quest for healthy long natural hair has completely shifted my approach to my nutrition and expanded an already growing interest in reusing and recycling. It's amazing how much I've learned about the multifaceted uses of common items that are always in my kitchen and bathroom!

I'm sure many people are reading this thinking it sounds nice but time consuming- isn't natural hair time consuming enough? When I first started making my own hair products it was very time consuming. But I must admit I loved having an excuse to block off an entire day for pampering. Now that I have a routine and an understanding of how to balance the products, it doesn't take much longer to do my hair with purchased products than homemade products. Like with anything you improve with practice.

Still need to be convinced why you should try your own DIY Kitchen Salon? Check out the benefits I've reaped:

- I've save money because the items I use for my hair are already on my grocery list.

- I've expanded the use of packaging from previously bought products, saving a few more items from a direct trip to the landfill.

- There is no worry of harmful chemicals in my homemade products, its all natural and mostly food. If its safe enough to go in my mouth, it's safe enough to lather all ova' my booooooooody!

- Now that I understand how various ingredients work for my hair and body I can adjust the balance as needed. This is extremely important for moisture and protein balance!

- My hair has improved tenfold! It is much more resistant to breakage; maintains greater moisture and retains length (after eight years of staying at the same length without ever trimming).

- Did I mention I SAVE MONEY?!

So how many of you have I converted? How many already have a thriving kitchen salon? Tell us why you started your kitchen salon and what you love about it.

Those who are new to the DIY practice can go here for some tips on starting your own kitchen salon.

How To Start Your Own Kitchen Salon

Making flax seed gel.

Do you want outstanding hair without an outrageous price? Want to be able to pronounce all of the ingredients listed on your hair product? Then perhaps you should consider starting your own DIY kitchen salon. If you're considering it but don't know how to start, check out what I've learned.

Basic Tools

This short list of tools to keep on hand will have you set for nearly any recipe.

- A glass mixing bowl or jar. This doesn't have to be large, I use an old 8 oz. jar from a facial scrub I had years back. Glass is best because it can withstand heat. Plastic is known to release toxins when microwaved that can seep into your products.

- An empty spray bottle, or two or three, depending on how many mixtures you like. I reuse leave-in conditioner spray bottles. Its not a good idea to store mixtures for too long because bacteria will grow. I make small batches of a water and aloe juice solution for each use so as not to be wasteful.

- A few containers with screw tops for storing mixtures that are non-perishable or have a long shelf life. I also reuse old containers for this purpose. Placing a layer of plastic wrap tightly under the top can extend the shelf life a day or two.

- An old stocking will serve a few purposes. You can cut it at the top of the thighs, sew or tie the loose ends and use as a stocking cap for sleeping or dryer styling. You can use one leg as a head band or hair tie and use the other leg as a strainer for your flax seed gel. Stockings are as functional as they are fashionable!

Basic Ingredients

These ingredients can be found in most grocery stores and pharmacies. They are either non-perishable or have long shelf lives and all are useful in a variety of ways.

- aloe vera juice

- apple cider vinegar (ACV)

- baking soda

- canned coconut milk (I use half for my hair and half in a meal)

- castille soap (like Dr. Bronner's)

- [extra virgin] coconut oil (EVCO)

- essential oils

- flax seeds

- glycerin 

- honey

- [extra virgin] olive oil (EVOO)

- vitamin E

Excited to get started? I hope so!

Any of you veterans want to share what's worked for you or what have you learned never to do again?

Rethinking Old Hair Habits

Rethinking Old Hair Habits
By Fran of HeyFranHey.com

Photo courtesy of heyfranhey.com

Check out my fellow Obie (Oberlin College alum) Fran of Hey Fran Hey, featured every Monday on the Black Girl Long Hair (BGLH) forum. This week she discusses her old hair habits, some she's discarded and some maintained.

In considering my old hair habits there are many I  let go and a few that I've returned to. I no longer buy cheap V05 shampoos and conditioners, but I've definitely returned to the simplicity of good ole' oil and water. Hmm... whoddathunkit?

What are some of your old habits? How many of them have you chucked and how many do you cherish?

Lessons on Becoming a Mixtress

This is a fantastic article from The Coil Review on the easy steps anyone can take to making their own hair products at home. It's especially helpful for those with limited time and money for hair care. Anyone can have healthy beauty!

 

Lessons on Becoming a Mixtress

By Tammy Goodson

These days we barely have time to cook family dinner, let alone an extra moment to whip up a hair concoction. The thought of coming up with your own natural hair mixture can be intimidating for some, but with a blender and a few tips, even the novice can become a consummate mixtress. 

Who Decides What You Put in Your Body?

The question first came to me while reading the article, "Cetaphil: Why the popular cleanser isn't doing your skin any favors" by Melisse Gelula on WellAndGoodNYC.com.

Melisse quoted Spirit Demerson who analyzes skin care ingredients for her own blog and made the point that none of the ingredients in Cetaphil are beneficial for your skin, in fact some are even harmful. There are eight ingredients in Cetaphil (water, cetyl alcohol, propylene glycol, sodium lauryl sulfate, stearyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben) and the only one I personally know to be healthy is water. Though it is the first listed ingredient, and therefore the most abundant, its health benefits are canceled out by the overwhelming effects of the other substances which are known to respectively clog pores, help substances enter the blood stream, over-dry skin and cause cancer.

It is especially unnerving to learn this about Cetaphil, which is one of the top cleansers recommended by dermatologists. In fact, my own dermatologist instructed me to use Cetaphil cleanser and lotion! So what then is the appeal, if the cleanser is not actually so great for the skin? The appeal is the relationship most doctors have with Galderama, one of the largest pharmaceutical distributors in the country. Regardless of the product's effectiveness (or lack thereof) doctors receive bonuses for pushing the product on their patients.

If you have a wandering mind like mine, you're probably wondering "what other cosmetic products should I be worried about?" I ran across a PSA video by Annie Leonard called "The Story of Cosmetics" which provides further insight into how to read ingredient labels, what to look out for and how to make healthier cosmetic choices.


I've already begun to address this issue by making most of my hair and body products, and choosing all natural products when I buy them. How will you take measures to make healthier cosmetic choices?

Innovative or Insane - How Far is Too Far with DIY Methods?

Obviously I am a fan of DIY methods of grooming, or else I would not have created this blog. However I do think there is a fine line between innovative and insane. I viewed a video by PrettyDimples01 on YouTube where she demonstrates her method of washing her scalp without washing her hair.
Now don't get me wrong, I know about 4+ hours of twisting or braiding hair and I understand wanting to preserve a style as long as possible. I like her idea of applying a baking soda paste directly to the scalp but I think it is a bit overboard to cover the ends of our hair with plastic bags to avoid wetting them. When its time to wash our hair, its time to wash our hair. Maybe I'm being overly critical, what do you all think?

Hair: Is It Really That Big of a Deal?

This was originally posted on "NaturalSunshine.com" May


I find myself flipping and flopping between wanting to learn more and more about naturally kinky hair, on practical, scientific, spiritual, communal, political levels... but why? Ain't it just hair? Isn't that what we call SUPERFICIAL? Being obsessed with vanity, appearances and things as frivolous as hair.

But what if hair hasn't been a frivolous thing in your life? What if you hair has been a source of embarrassment and shame? What if no matter what you did it never retained length; you never had that "get up and go" hair; doing it was painful and/or disappointing? What if your hair made you feel out of control of yourself?

That’s how I felt for a long time. Completely out of control! I did not understand how I could spend so much time on my “hair days” but even after years of giving up relaxers my hair was no longer, no softer, no more manageable than it was when chemically processed. I always managed to make my hair look nice, but I was truthfully unhappy not being able to accomplish what everyone should be able to do without trying- grow hair.

Jump to today and I am astonished at the amount of length I am retaining and I can’t lie, feeling hair on my shoulders for the first time since I was about 11 years old feels friggin’ great! I mean really, I feel sexy and glamorous and cool all at the same time. And what got me to feel this good about myself? My “superficial” obsession with growing long, healthy, natural hair, that’s what!

Seriously, I really put my mind to accomplishing this goal that I had pined for since junior high school when my long thick hair from childhood began its bout with chronic breakage. Let’s do the math: 5 years of bad relaxers courtesy of Chez Pia’s DIY Home Salon plus, 8 years of fumbling around with the mineral oil-filled “Black” products I recalled from my press n’ curl days that never made my hair look quite the same as my childhood pictures plus, 2 years of obsessive research and trial and error to figure it all out. I’d say its about dang time I stumbled across some answer! So yes, I am proud to be able to grow my natural hair long and healthy, but the sense of accomplishment doesn’t come exclusively from retained length.

The quest for healthy hair has led me to a healthier lifestyle and an expanded awareness of all that nature has to offer. I’m a Brooklyn girl (Brooklyn we go hard!) and growing up in NYC with very little exposure to natural landscapes had made me pretty ignorant about natural remedies. My mind was blown the first time I came across Avocado Coconut Milk Conditioner... WHAT?!

Baking soda rinses to clarify, apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinses to neutralize, olive oil to condition?! Then I began learning about essential oils, and teas and how to apply them to facials, steam baths, massages. A whole new world was opened up, Planet Earth was opened up to me, the world that I had always lived in but had been out of touch with.

So is this obsession just frivolous, superficial, nonsensical? I would beg to differ. I think the topic of hair is deeply layered. It is interconnected with so many other aspects of life: self esteem, health, nature, politics, culture, fashion, etc. Do I feel ashamed of my obsession with my hair, that I spend so much time writing, photographing, videotaping and talking about it? I most certainly don’t and neither should you!

Stay positive. Stay Beautiful.


~In Hair Solidarity,

Pia

2008-10: THE AGE OF NATURAL HAIR ENLIGHTENMENT

This post originally appeared on "NaturalSunshine.com" January 28, 2011.

Asien (from Natural Sunshine) asked me what happened two years ago to change my understanding and maintenance of my natural hair. Well I got a story, like to hear it? Here it go!

In the summer of 2008 I met a beautician who wanted to do only natural hair, she was so happy I came into the shop. I had about 4 inches of hair, that I had never cut and rarely trimmed the 8 years I had been natural by then.

I was telling her of my chronic issue with dryness and breakage, that I was very careful with how I treated my hair but nothing worked. She asked if I were using the same products that I did with a relaxer, and I was. That was the issue! I was applying chemicals to my virgin hair, and they were doing nothing for me. If I looked for natural products I would see better results.

She introduced me to the Caramel Treatment & Jane Carter Solution, and used those products in my hair. I loved the results! I got the CT a second time, but it was too expensive to maintain. It stretched my hair and made it easy to straighten. I had forgotten the name of the JCS line, so it would be a few years until I came around to them again.

I started using Nubian Heritage & Burt's Bees shampoos & conditioners which are generally 97% natural. My hair began to respond immediately. It maintained moisture and was softer. But I still had breakage! Then I started looking up ways to make conditioners with household foods.

If I were going to use products that were as natural as possible, why didn't I just make my own?! The day I met the coconut milk & avocado conditioner... I was enlightened! When baking soda rinse and apple cider vinegar rinse joined in... I was ecstatic! And so was my hair!

I chopped my hair off just before New Year's 2010, down to about 1 1/2 - 2inches. My hair was supple. It had shine. It had bounce. It still had constant breakage... WTF?!

Then I discovered the seamless comb in July 2010. At that time, my longest strands were about 4 1/2 inches. Now in January 2011, my longest strands are about 8 inches. 3 1/2 inches in 6 months, I'd say that's progress!

To wrap up this rather long stroll down memory, the lessons I've learned in the last two years are:
- natural hair benefits best from natural products
- a seamless comb helps to eliminate breakage and lessen shedding
- I really enjoy blocking out a few hours (or an entire day) to make my products, prewash, rinse, deep condition, stretch and style my hair! It is my ME TIME!!

I hope you all enjoyed my story.

In Hair Solidarity,

Pia