Searching for Nature in Un-Natural Ways

I read an article on The Natural Haven about a natural ingredient in the Shea Moisture (SM) product that mimics parabens but isn't scientifically defined as such. The japanese honeysuckle extract found in some of their products looks (on a molecular level) and behaves in the same way as a paraben; easily seeping into skin and binding to certain cells.

Shea Moisture products

BTW: Visit The Natural Haven if you haven't already. Its run by JC, a scientist who really knows her stuff! Though it takes me a while to digest all of the information because I'm relying on Wikipedia and memories of past chemistry classes to explain it, I appreciate her honest research. She offers a lot of raw data so that you can form your own opinions about natural hair methods and products.

But where was I? Oh yes- SM! This product line has BLOWN UP in the natural hair community, especially because of its slogan "Culturally authentic products made with indigenous ingredients since 1912." (1912?! Why did it take 100 years for this product line to grow so popular?)

A reader asked JC about the japanese honeysuckle extract, if it was a paraben or not and if the SM manufacturers were being dishonest or deceitful about it. According to JC's research, the extract is indeed natural and parabens are scientifically defined as synthetic products. Therefore SM is not legally required to categorize it as such. However the two substances are nearly identical in properties and behavior which is not implied by the "paraben-free" tag on the Shea Moisture line.

I can understand a consumer's frustration if they had been happily slathering their strands with the security of a paraben-free product and then learned that an ingredient has the same properties as a paraben. Consumers would have to minor in chemistry classes to understand it all! But that's just it, you have to become an educated consumer in order to make informed decisions- about anything.

Another way is to stop searching for nature in a bottle guaranteed to last for 6 months to a year. I mean ultimately isn't that what's happening? We wouldn't expect the tomato we buy at the market to last for a year, but we want natural hair products to have long shelf lives without the compromise of preservatives. Its a little silly, no?

DIY Winter Hair Mask

If you feel duped by Shea Moisture or any other product line you thought was delivering you just fruits and berries in a bottle might I suggest one way to be absolutely sure you know each and every ingredient in your product? CREATE YOUR OWN KITCHEN SALON!

DIY Recipe: Pia's Dry Don't Fry All-Natural Heat Protectant

Ingredients
raw shea and/or mango butter

extra virgin coconut oil

avocado and/or grapeseed oil

vitamin E

flax seed oil

soy lecithin

Ratio

To avoid a runny mess use a 2:3 ratio of liquid oils to solid butters. 2 tablespoons (combined) avocado, grapeseed oil, vitamin E, flax seed oil, and soy lecithin with 3 tablespoons (combined) shea butter and mango butter. This fits a 4 ounce container and lasts up to 2 months (for me).

Mixing

Here are the different methods I've used for mixing:

• Lazy Method - Melting and mixing all ingredients together, then allowing to solidify. This method is my least favorite because the shea and mango butters get grainy as they cool down, creating a lumpy mixture. It can take over an hour for the butters to solidify at room temperature, about 20 minutes in the freezer. You have to keep watching the mixture otherwise you end up with something like a chocolate bar when its cold. 

• Thorough Method - Whipping the shea and mango butter at room temperature then adding in other ingredients a little at a time. I like this method a lot, but as I don't have an electric hand mixer it is very tiresome. With an electric mixer you can whip the butter in 3 minutes. Whipping by hand can take up to 10 minutes depending on how soft your butters are. 

•  Compromising Method - Partially melting the shea and mango butters then whipping in the other ingredients a bit at a time as it cools works best for me without an electric mixer. I speed up the cooling process by placing the mixture in the freezer in 5 minute increments. All of the ingredients blend smoothly and I achieve the creamy lotion texture I'm looking for. This usually takes me about 20-30 minutes, but I do this while deep conditioning and making my other products, so the time is not wasted on just waiting.

Kick @$$ Qualities

- Shea and mango butters are excellent deep conditioners; are loaded with vitamins that protect the hair from heat and sun damage; make a great base because of their firm textures at room temperature and interminable shelf life.

- Extra virgin coconut oil easily penetrates the hair shaft making it an excellent deep conditioner. It also adds a subtle but delicious scent!

- Avocado has an extremely high smoke point around 500º, providing excellent protection for your strands when heat styling. Avocado oil is also loaded in essential nutrients like proteins, vitamins A, D, E and B6, magnesium, copper, iron, amino acids and folic acid.

- Grapeseed oil has an extremely high smoke point around 480º, providing excellent protection for your strands when heat styling. is very light, making it an excellent carrier oil for diluting heavier and more potent oils. It helps prevent dandruff, won't cause buildup and is easily absorbed by hair strands for deep conditioning benefits.

- Vitamin E (in my unprofessional opinion) works best for sunscreen protection when applied topically. The other benefits are best achieved when ingested, by eating foods that are rich in vitamin E or taking supplements. It is a very thick viscous liquid, so I'm sure it has some (however little) emollient properties.

- Flax seed oil contains all of the vital omega-3 fatty acids, which add sheen and luster. It also increases circulation in the scalp to stimulate hair growth.

- Soy lecithin contains inositol which is rumored to be critical in hair growth (I haven't read any certified studies). In the heat protectant it is an emulsifier, adding slip that remains even after blow drying. My hair is chronically dry, so I like the light non-greasy coating it leaves. I don't have to reapply any product for 3-4 days. Use sparingly because too much would definitely cause build up.

Give it a try and let us know how it works for you. What other natural items provide heat protection?

DIY Recipe: Rosemary and Mint Face Cleanser

I.MUST.TRY.THIS. I've been using diluted unscented Dr. Bronner's on my face and so far its been better than anything I've bought in a store. I pair that with an occasional coffee or sugar scrub (recipe also inspired by this site) the break outs have lessened substantially!

Do any of you have recipes for DIY facial scrubs and cleansers?

DIY Rosemary and Mint Face Cleanser
From the book Natural Alternatives for You and Your Home by Casey Kellar

Rosemary and Mint Glycerin Cleanser

• 1 ounce (29g) glycerin (vegetable based is best)
• 2 ounce (60ml) liquid Castile soap
• 1 ounce (30ml) water
• 1/2 ounce (15ml) witch hazel
• 1 drop rosemary extract
• 1 drop mint extract

Mix together and store in a plastic or glass bottle. Label with name and date.
Shelf Life: 3 to 6 months
Find other fantastic DIY natural home & beauty ideas at ecolife.com.

Reasons to Start Your Own Kitchen Salon

Ingredients for my Winter Hair Mask

There are two trends in the natural hair community that have inspired me to make major changes in my lifestyle; greater interest in DIY hair care and greater interest in natural products. What started as a quest for healthy long natural hair has completely shifted my approach to my nutrition and expanded an already growing interest in reusing and recycling. It's amazing how much I've learned about the multifaceted uses of common items that are always in my kitchen and bathroom!

I'm sure many people are reading this thinking it sounds nice but time consuming- isn't natural hair time consuming enough? When I first started making my own hair products it was very time consuming. But I must admit I loved having an excuse to block off an entire day for pampering. Now that I have a routine and an understanding of how to balance the products, it doesn't take much longer to do my hair with purchased products than homemade products. Like with anything you improve with practice.

Still need to be convinced why you should try your own DIY Kitchen Salon? Check out the benefits I've reaped:

- I've save money because the items I use for my hair are already on my grocery list.

- I've expanded the use of packaging from previously bought products, saving a few more items from a direct trip to the landfill.

- There is no worry of harmful chemicals in my homemade products, its all natural and mostly food. If its safe enough to go in my mouth, it's safe enough to lather all ova' my booooooooody!

- Now that I understand how various ingredients work for my hair and body I can adjust the balance as needed. This is extremely important for moisture and protein balance!

- My hair has improved tenfold! It is much more resistant to breakage; maintains greater moisture and retains length (after eight years of staying at the same length without ever trimming).

- Did I mention I SAVE MONEY?!

So how many of you have I converted? How many already have a thriving kitchen salon? Tell us why you started your kitchen salon and what you love about it.

Those who are new to the DIY practice can go here for some tips on starting your own kitchen salon.

How To Start Your Own Kitchen Salon

Making flax seed gel.

Do you want outstanding hair without an outrageous price? Want to be able to pronounce all of the ingredients listed on your hair product? Then perhaps you should consider starting your own DIY kitchen salon. If you're considering it but don't know how to start, check out what I've learned.

Basic Tools

This short list of tools to keep on hand will have you set for nearly any recipe.

- A glass mixing bowl or jar. This doesn't have to be large, I use an old 8 oz. jar from a facial scrub I had years back. Glass is best because it can withstand heat. Plastic is known to release toxins when microwaved that can seep into your products.

- An empty spray bottle, or two or three, depending on how many mixtures you like. I reuse leave-in conditioner spray bottles. Its not a good idea to store mixtures for too long because bacteria will grow. I make small batches of a water and aloe juice solution for each use so as not to be wasteful.

- A few containers with screw tops for storing mixtures that are non-perishable or have a long shelf life. I also reuse old containers for this purpose. Placing a layer of plastic wrap tightly under the top can extend the shelf life a day or two.

- An old stocking will serve a few purposes. You can cut it at the top of the thighs, sew or tie the loose ends and use as a stocking cap for sleeping or dryer styling. You can use one leg as a head band or hair tie and use the other leg as a strainer for your flax seed gel. Stockings are as functional as they are fashionable!

Basic Ingredients

These ingredients can be found in most grocery stores and pharmacies. They are either non-perishable or have long shelf lives and all are useful in a variety of ways.

- aloe vera juice

- apple cider vinegar (ACV)

- baking soda

- canned coconut milk (I use half for my hair and half in a meal)

- castille soap (like Dr. Bronner's)

- [extra virgin] coconut oil (EVCO)

- essential oils

- flax seeds

- glycerin 

- honey

- [extra virgin] olive oil (EVOO)

- vitamin E

Excited to get started? I hope so!

Any of you veterans want to share what's worked for you or what have you learned never to do again?

DIY Hair Care Isn't Food Waste! a.k.a. You Betta' Back Up Wit Dat

Coconut Milk Avocado Honey Conditioner

So I'm a bit peeved, if you couldn't tell. I'll admit this is an old issue (as in the incident that set me off took place some time ago), but it is an argument I always have with my husband and now other people. I'm tired of people suggesting that using food items for my hair care is a waste of food. *PAUSE*

Food is essential to health and body care inside and out and a multifaceted use of food items is not wasteful. Besides the chemicals to make health and beauty products are made to mimic what fruits, vegetables and herbs do naturally. So aren't DIY methods more natural and in fact, the way we were intended to take care of ourselves (albeit maybe not with such elaborate recipes)?

Coffee Facial Scrub. Want the recipe?

I follow a blog by Jonathan Bloom called Wasted Food (check it out if you, like myself, find yourself throwing away rotten food way too often- or check it out anyway). I was drawn to an article that was wagging the finger at kitty litter made from corn. I do agree with Jonathan that we should be conscious and considerate of frivolous food consumption, especially when so many people in the world are starving. However considering personal hygiene is not at all a frivolous thing, I would not lump my practices into that category. I don't think using half a can of coconut milk on my hair and the other half in my beans is wasteful. I don't think using my coffee grinds as a facial scrub after my daily cup o' joe is wasteful.

Well, there's my rant. But what do you all think?

Coconut milk & honey & avocado moisturizing protein deep conditioner

This was originally posted on "NaturalSunshine.com" May 19, 2011

This deep conditioner was my introduction to kitchen-made hair products. It is a staple product in my regimen, and now that I've been using it for over 2 years I can switch up the recipe to fit my hair needs in that particular moment. Further down I will list various ingredients and their benefits. Try it out and tell me what you think. What's your favorite variation of this recipe?

This is my original recipe; after trying different versions that I learned from other people this is what I came up with and stuck to for nearly a year straight before switching it up frequently. However many people use the basic recipe of coconut milk & avocado with oil for a deep conditioner.

INGREDIENTS:
- coconut milk - protein rich; deep conditions; defines curls and coils; makes the liquid base of the mixture
- avocado - protein rich; high fat content; high fiber content rich in vitamins E and K; thickens the mixture

ENHANCEMENTS:
(I would not suggest trying all of these at once.)

- aloe vera oil - emollient; promotes rapid hair growth
- avocado oil - heat protectant; rich in vitamin A, D and E
- flaxseed oil - promotes circulation; high fiber content; essential fatty acids
- glycerin - humectant; adds slip for easy detangling
- grapefruit essential oil - promotes hair growth; adds sheen; smells great
- grape seed oil - heat protectant; promotes hair growth
- honey - emollient; humectant; thickens the mixture
- lavender essential oil - soothes eczema and psoriasis; smells great
- oilve oil - emollient; deep conditions hair
- raw mango butter - emollient; rich in vitamin E; softens hair; sunscreen
- raw shea butter - emollient; rich in vitamin E; softens hair; sunscreen
- rosemary essential oil - promotes circulation; cleanses the scalp; combats dandruff; cures alopecia
- sage essential oil - cleanses the scalp; promotes hair growth
- vitamin E - sunscreen; promotes circulation in the scalp
- yogurt - rich in B vitamins, loosens curls/coils for easier detangling; mildly cleanses the scalp; adds sheen
*there is a bit of debate over using fat and non-fat yogurt, but I always use non-fat because that's what's in my fridge. I'll add an update when I see yogurt with fat in my grocery store!

~In Hair Solidarity,

Pia