Mizani Releases a New Hair Typing System

Look out Andre Walker, Mizani is challenging the four-part hair typing system that many naturals have deemed unfit to describe their hair textures. Walker's system creates four categories to describe hair of all types, with each category having up to three sub-categories:

Type 1a - Straight (Fine/Thin) - Hair tends to be very Soft, Shiny, difficult to hold a curl, hair also tends to be oily, and difficult to damage. 
Type 1b - Straight (Medium) - Hair has lots of volume & body. 
Type 1c - Straight (Coarse) - Hair is normally bone straight and difficult to Curl. Asian women usually fall into this category. 

Type 2a - Wavy (Fine/Thin) - Hair has a definite "S" pattern. Normally can accomplish various styles. 
Type 2b - Wavy (Medium) - Hair tends to be frizzy, and a little resistant to styling. 
Type 2c - Wavy (Coarse) - Hair is also resistant to styling and normally very frizzy;tends to have thicker waves. 

Type 3a - Curly (Loose Curls) - Hair tends to have a combination texture. It can be thick & full with lots of body, with a definite "S" pattern. It aslo tends to be frizzy. 
Type 3b - Curly (Tight Curls) - Also tends to have a combination texture, with a medium amount of curl. 

Type 4a - Kinky (Soft) - Hair tends to be very Fragile, tightly coiled, and has a more defined curly pattern. 
Type 4b - Kinky (Wiry) - Also very fragile and tightly coiled; however with a less defined curly pattern -has more of a "Z" pattern shape.

To address the shortcomings of this system, many kinky-haired naturals have added a Type 4c category, for hair that is a combination of 4a and 4b. Yet after Walker's comment in Elle magazine July 2011 issue "kinky hair can have limited styling options; that is the only hair type that I suggest altering with chemical relaxing" many naturals are discarding his system (along with any respect for him).

In steps Mizani with the "Natural Curl Key" developed "after years of researching and testing" with "a scientific approach." This system names "eight distinctive hair types worldwide." I don't know about the rest of y'all but I'm sick of these systems designed to tell me (or a so-called professional) how to care for my hair. The best research and testing I have found is doing my own hair and my scientific approach is trial and error. But check it out and you be the judge.

Wash Regimen: Version 1

I tend to switch things up frequently when it comes to hobbies, passions, penmanship and of course hair regimens. Maybe its me, but times change and the same old methods don't always cut it. Don't get me wrong, I do believe 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it.' But I've noticed my hair doesn't respond the same way to products after prolonged use. To keep my results as fresh as the first time I like to change ingredients and procedures.

Here is one method I use for washing and conditioning my hair:

I wash my hair in large twists to limit breakage, tangling and to make the process more efficient.

I allow warm water to run through the roots of my hair. Most of my products are natural and water-soluble so they rinse out easily.

I dilute the Dr. Bronner's soap before using. About 1 tbsp to 1 c of water. I sometimes enhance it with rosemary and sage essential oils and baking soda if I've used gel or pomade.

 If I have a lot of product build up, I will unravel the twists and finger comb the soap through. Then I retwist it before rinsing to limit tangles.

The rosemary and sage essential oils help stimulate circulation in the scalp and encourages growth. Take this time to give yourself a cleansing scalp massage.

After thoroughly rinsing out the soap, I apply my conditioner by unraveling each twist, finger combing the conditioner through, then retwisting before rinsing.

I think retwisting the section after working conditioner through helps the product penetrate the strands. I've noticed my hair retains greater moisture when I wash my hair in twists than when I wash it loose.

Repeat the process for all sections.

 I am very generous when applying conditioner.

For the conditioner recipe follow this link: Coconut milk & honey & avocado moisturizing protein deep conditioner

Working the conditioner through the strands.

Retwisting the section. I will leave this in my hair for at least 30 minutes at most 2 hours.

Be sure to rinse thoroughly if using my conditioner recipe. Perishable ingredients should not be left to dry in your hair. (They may start to smell.)

I Love to be Natural, But Don't Dare Call Me Nappy!

This was first published on Hmms By PMM July 27, 2011.
 
Before I get to doing what I like to do (share my opinion) I have to clearly state that this post is in no way meant to insult or criticize anyone else for their individual experiences. I am only speaking from my own perspective.

What's in a name? We ask that question all the time but rarely act with it in mind. What is it to be called African? Complimentary or insulting? If a person identifies as a descendant of African people, does the name not apply? Why do we brown-skinned women flush when called a "Nubian goddess" but cringe when called "an African"?

Once upon a time, "kinky" and "nappy" were both offensive terms. Now kinky is ok, its a celebrated term. It is often modified with "curly" as in "kinky curly" but still, its graciously accepted. But nappy is still an insult, it hasn't received its pass yet. So again I ask, what's in a name?

Of course emotions are tied to words and its easier said than done when choosing not to get hurt by certain words. But remembering that words are only as powerful as the value we place into them may be helpful to keep in mind when dealing with negative comments about natural hair.

(Wannabes) Well you got nappy hair.
(Jigaboos) Nappy's alright with me.
- Lyrics from the song "Straight and Nappy," from the movie soundtrack Skool Daze. (1987)

Hair: Is It Really That Big of a Deal?

This was originally posted on "NaturalSunshine.com" May


I find myself flipping and flopping between wanting to learn more and more about naturally kinky hair, on practical, scientific, spiritual, communal, political levels... but why? Ain't it just hair? Isn't that what we call SUPERFICIAL? Being obsessed with vanity, appearances and things as frivolous as hair.

But what if hair hasn't been a frivolous thing in your life? What if you hair has been a source of embarrassment and shame? What if no matter what you did it never retained length; you never had that "get up and go" hair; doing it was painful and/or disappointing? What if your hair made you feel out of control of yourself?

That’s how I felt for a long time. Completely out of control! I did not understand how I could spend so much time on my “hair days” but even after years of giving up relaxers my hair was no longer, no softer, no more manageable than it was when chemically processed. I always managed to make my hair look nice, but I was truthfully unhappy not being able to accomplish what everyone should be able to do without trying- grow hair.

Jump to today and I am astonished at the amount of length I am retaining and I can’t lie, feeling hair on my shoulders for the first time since I was about 11 years old feels friggin’ great! I mean really, I feel sexy and glamorous and cool all at the same time. And what got me to feel this good about myself? My “superficial” obsession with growing long, healthy, natural hair, that’s what!

Seriously, I really put my mind to accomplishing this goal that I had pined for since junior high school when my long thick hair from childhood began its bout with chronic breakage. Let’s do the math: 5 years of bad relaxers courtesy of Chez Pia’s DIY Home Salon plus, 8 years of fumbling around with the mineral oil-filled “Black” products I recalled from my press n’ curl days that never made my hair look quite the same as my childhood pictures plus, 2 years of obsessive research and trial and error to figure it all out. I’d say its about dang time I stumbled across some answer! So yes, I am proud to be able to grow my natural hair long and healthy, but the sense of accomplishment doesn’t come exclusively from retained length.

The quest for healthy hair has led me to a healthier lifestyle and an expanded awareness of all that nature has to offer. I’m a Brooklyn girl (Brooklyn we go hard!) and growing up in NYC with very little exposure to natural landscapes had made me pretty ignorant about natural remedies. My mind was blown the first time I came across Avocado Coconut Milk Conditioner... WHAT?!

Baking soda rinses to clarify, apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinses to neutralize, olive oil to condition?! Then I began learning about essential oils, and teas and how to apply them to facials, steam baths, massages. A whole new world was opened up, Planet Earth was opened up to me, the world that I had always lived in but had been out of touch with.

So is this obsession just frivolous, superficial, nonsensical? I would beg to differ. I think the topic of hair is deeply layered. It is interconnected with so many other aspects of life: self esteem, health, nature, politics, culture, fashion, etc. Do I feel ashamed of my obsession with my hair, that I spend so much time writing, photographing, videotaping and talking about it? I most certainly don’t and neither should you!

Stay positive. Stay Beautiful.


~In Hair Solidarity,

Pia

The Kitchen Salon: Flaxseed Gel

Firstly I must give thanks to Naptural85 of YouTube for her Do It Yourself: Homemade Natural Hair Gel with Flaxseeds video that introduced me to this miracle concoction. I used her video as a guide but followed my own instincts with measuring and mixing oils. Here is my process:

  

Prepare a glass container (this can withstand the heat and allow you to see what you're doing) with a knee high stocking or other mesh material stretched over. Its a good idea to secure the material over the opening of the container with a rubber band or hair tie. Allow ample stocking or material inside the container.

   

Bring 1 cup of tap water to a boil. Add 1/8 cup of golden or dark brown flaxseeds to the boiling water. Stir occasionally. The mixture will gain viscosity, and become a thick mucus.

   

When mixture becomes very thick and begins to foam slightly (about 10-12 minutes) turn off heat and pour mixture (seeds and all) into your container prepared with mesh/stocking.

 

Lift the mesh/stocking and allow gel to strain into container. You may use tongs to squeeze gel through mesh/stocking (or I made "tongs" out of a pair of chopsticks).

    

As mixture cools it will thicken. Before completely cool stir in Vitamin E, flax seed oil, vegetable glycerine, 1 teaspoon of your favorite oil (olive, castor, etc.) and a few drops of your favorite essential oils for for scent and enhancements. I'll include suggestions at the bottom.

The last time I decided to reheat the flaxseeds and see if I could make more gel, and it worked. I wouldn't suggest boiling them more than that, but I got 2 servings of gel from 1/8 cup of seeds! Store your gel in an airtight container in the refrigerator. The oils will help preserve the mixture, but I suggest using it within 7-10 days though Naptural85 stores hers for longer.

The Results

My braid outs and twist out are wonderfully defined each and every time, but my hair is never hard and stays moist and defined the whole day. To refresh I spritz my hair and rebraid/twist at night. The results are just as defined the next day. The gel is extremely light, so it doesn't produce a lot of build up over time. I've slept in my curly updos with a silk bonnet and my curls were intact the next day!

Essential Oils for Enhancements

Grapefruit, Orange and Lavendar: adds shine, increase circulation and smells wonderful

Sage, Rosemary and Lavendar: increase circulation, stimulate growth, minimize dry scalp

Try out this recipe and share your tips for enhancements and variations!

~ In Hair Solidarity,

Pia

Coconut milk & honey & avocado moisturizing protein deep conditioner

This was originally posted on "NaturalSunshine.com" May 19, 2011

This deep conditioner was my introduction to kitchen-made hair products. It is a staple product in my regimen, and now that I've been using it for over 2 years I can switch up the recipe to fit my hair needs in that particular moment. Further down I will list various ingredients and their benefits. Try it out and tell me what you think. What's your favorite variation of this recipe?

This is my original recipe; after trying different versions that I learned from other people this is what I came up with and stuck to for nearly a year straight before switching it up frequently. However many people use the basic recipe of coconut milk & avocado with oil for a deep conditioner.

INGREDIENTS:
- coconut milk - protein rich; deep conditions; defines curls and coils; makes the liquid base of the mixture
- avocado - protein rich; high fat content; high fiber content rich in vitamins E and K; thickens the mixture

ENHANCEMENTS:
(I would not suggest trying all of these at once.)

- aloe vera oil - emollient; promotes rapid hair growth
- avocado oil - heat protectant; rich in vitamin A, D and E
- flaxseed oil - promotes circulation; high fiber content; essential fatty acids
- glycerin - humectant; adds slip for easy detangling
- grapefruit essential oil - promotes hair growth; adds sheen; smells great
- grape seed oil - heat protectant; promotes hair growth
- honey - emollient; humectant; thickens the mixture
- lavender essential oil - soothes eczema and psoriasis; smells great
- oilve oil - emollient; deep conditions hair
- raw mango butter - emollient; rich in vitamin E; softens hair; sunscreen
- raw shea butter - emollient; rich in vitamin E; softens hair; sunscreen
- rosemary essential oil - promotes circulation; cleanses the scalp; combats dandruff; cures alopecia
- sage essential oil - cleanses the scalp; promotes hair growth
- vitamin E - sunscreen; promotes circulation in the scalp
- yogurt - rich in B vitamins, loosens curls/coils for easier detangling; mildly cleanses the scalp; adds sheen
*there is a bit of debate over using fat and non-fat yogurt, but I always use non-fat because that's what's in my fridge. I'll add an update when I see yogurt with fat in my grocery store!

~In Hair Solidarity,

Pia